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|Address:||One New Change, St Paul's, London EC4M 9AB|
|Tel:||020 3551 9863|
|Price: £52.00||Wine: £21.00||Champagne: £54.00|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Sun 7am-11pm|
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I'm not sure why I still get excited by another Gordon Ramsey venture, but next time I do, I'll remember Bread St Kitchen and that should dampen it. The decor is all industrial rafters with kitschy chandeliers which left me uninspired: it's inoffensive, but also a bit 'we've seen it all before', a bit of modern day Browns. The pretentious and pointless splitting of the menu into raw/hot kitchen/wood stone (which makes no difference to what you order) should have rung louder alarm bells. Service started off promising with lots of smiles and then descended into an abyss: despite there being an inordinate number of staff, it took half an hour for 2 glasses of wine to arrive for example; perhaps no surprise as no one particular waiter was assigned to the table so no one thought it was their responsibility to serve us. The food took the edge off: my pork belly with spiced apple sauce was delicious, but then London has been serving up this kind of stuff for 20 years so getting it right isn't that impressive any more. After 2 courses and a glass of wine, I left £56 worse off and disappointed. Although no doubt destined to become a favourite with suits looking for a cooler client lunch venue and for secretaries looking for after work pseudo classy pzazz, if you've got any imagination you should be able to find something better than this shopping mall housed let-down, even in The City.