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|Address:||21A Foley Street, London W1W 6DS|
|Tel:||020 7436 0921|
|Price: £44.00||Wine: £18.00||Champagne: £48.00|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Sun 12N-3pm 6-10pm|
1 of 1 people found this review helpful.
Bonnie Gull Seafood Shack could be unique in being unique in London. One of a kind, individual, a one off. It's how I imagine a posh crab shack on the Maine coastline would look: a beach hut with sun-bleached clapboards but filled with linen-laid tables and grown-up glassware. The kind of place where you'd expect a few off-duty US politicians in chinos. You can almost smell the sea salty air. It was empty when I arrived midweek at 12.15pm but soon filled up enough to provide a gentle background hum without ever turning into an annoying buzz. The clientele's a mixed bunch: a few young men chatting to the bartender, a couple of older suits, a ladies' lunch gang. All very genteel and relaxed though. The menu is fish, of course! I started with venus clams, oily deliciousness, and then rather unimaginatively had the fish and chips. It was good although I wish I had tried something else as fish and chips, no matter how good, never really blows you away and there were plenty of other appealing options. Next time I'd go for a crustacean, assuming there's one on the menu which looks like it changes regularly in tune with the seasons/catch of the day. The wine list is short but sweet. A couple of crisp glasses of Albarino hit the spot for me but others might find the choice a bit limited. Service is friendly, relaxed, helpful, unhurried (at times it might need a bit of a push along but it's difficult to get het up about anything in here). If only the bill were in dollars though: £56 a head is a bit of a pinch for a chippy lunch but I suppose for 2 and a quarter hours of quiet pleasure it's cheaper than a Swedish massage and more effective. No doubt the owners are already planning a burgeoning Shack chain. Shame, but I'm too relaxed to work up a sweat about it right now.