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|Address:||21A Foley Street, London W1W 6DS|
|Tel:||020 7436 0921|
|Price: £44.00||Wine: £18.00||Champagne: £48.00|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Sun 12N-3pm 6-10pm|
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Bonnie Gull is mainly furniture, with seemingly few concessions to humans. Reaching your chair or going to the loo involves contorting like a circus performer and getting on first-name terms with half your fellow customers. The kitchen seems not to have been designed with these diners in mind as it struggled to cope with a midweek lunch. We arrived at 1pm and gossiped for half an hour, untroubled by the waiting staff, yet even when we then turned to ordering, we were told that the kitchen was too busy. Neighbouring tables were evidently having the same problem, although it had little effect on the buzzy atmosphere. Nothing was offered as recompense for this delay.
The menu is good: a wide array of fresh seafood, creditably cooked and presented, the highlights of which were razor clams and queen scallops. We cobbled together a good lunch of plates to share rather than starters and mains.
The decor has a maritime feel such as I imagine you might find at one of those Suffolk villages that's overrun by Londoners with second homes. Customers were mostly silver-haired chaps in business suits.
If they could make the numbers work with fewer covers, thus solving both the ktichen's capacity issues and the ‘assault course’ feel of the table layout, this would be a welcome addition to the rather thin restaurant scene in this end of Fitzrovia.