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|Address:||10 Berners Street, London W1T 3NP|
|Tel:||020 7908 7979|
|Price: £52.00||Wine: £16.00||Champagne: £42.00|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Sun 7-10.30am 12N-2.30pm 6-10.30pm|
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Both the name and the pictures of Berners Tavern don’t really do justice to the grandeur of this sparkling dining room, which exudes glamour, warmth and easy-going conviviality, with no hint of stiffness. Typical Jason Atherton!
His food, as usual, speaks for itself, with Orkney scallop ceviche, avocado, various salady bits and lime ice kick-starting our meal with an exquisite juxtaposition of zingy flavour, texture and temperature.
My guest’s pan-braised halibut was the pick of the mains, accompanied by a generous helping of squid ink risotto, garlic squid and broccoli, just shading my Creedy Carver duck dish which was a picture of elegant presentation, served perfectly pink with caramelised apples, pickled plum purée and turnips.
Meanwhile, don’t miss puddings – warm almond brioche, pear compote and ginger sorbet or caramel apple and Calvados éclair with Devon cream and salted caramel ice cream.
Service is well timed and well informed, and the big-city was happily far from booming. I’ll certainly be back!