Olly's review of Bentley's

Tucked away on the aptly named Swallow Street this comfortable old landmark was rescued by the Michelin-starred Richard Corrigan in 2005 and has won high praise ever since. Whether impressing a date, catching up with good friends or treating your mum, it consistently delivers the goods.

The Grill upstairs offers unobtrusive service in non-crowded surroundings, while the French chaps behind the Oyster Bar downstairs serve up platters of natives and charming banter. Two-course set lunches with very drinkable house wines begin at £22.50, while the a la carte runs all the way up to market fresh (market price) Dover sole. Show-boating with the huge shellfish platter won't disappoint, but then neither does the humble fish pie, generously filled with prawns and chunky salmon.

It seems unfair to single out dishes when the kitchen produces such well judged and lovingly prepared food. Seabream and nice specials stand out, but it is hard to go wrong here.

The well-chosen wine list is good at all prices and knowledgeable staff happily offer helpful advice. Admittedly it's reassuringly expensive and getting a table can be tricky, but Bentley's deserves its admirers who clearly know when they're on to a good thing.