Richard's review of Barrica

I view Restaurants reservations like job interviews: you book a slot, turn up and expect to be fed or interviewed. I have a simple rule too; 15 minutes grace period then out. So we turn up at Barrica at the alotted hour, to be told that we'll have to wait, as the big table that had booked had more people turn up than they had thought. Now I'm sorry, but how is that my problem?

To be fair, it was something of a miracle that there was a reservation at all; I am all for Spanish restaurants employing Spanish bar staff. After all, it certainly adds to the authenticity. They should at least have some English, otherwise making a reservation is something of a challange. So three calls later, I have (I think) confirmed a table. So it seemed.

Anyway, we waited at the bar, with a beautiful La Bota Manzanilla (and a dry torta on a cocktail stick). So far, so average. Just as the clock turn 15 minutes and we were about to leave for Salt Yard next door, a table appeared.

Things immediately looked up with a lovely plate of Pan Tomaca and some Jamon Bellota. Nicely crisp bread, dripping with tomato; paper thin cuts of sweet, fatty ham. The perfect starter to any meal. The trouble is, other than a gorgeously peppery olive oil (that came with the bread basket) and the wines, it was all a bit downhill from there. Snails weren't at all, they were winkles. This of itself is fine, but I am still no closer to identifying the mojo sauce. The croquetas were ok, but dry rather than runny inside and the smoked mushrooms certainly above average.

A few years back, Fino took tapas restaurants above and away from the cheap and cheerful, La Rueda style, raising the bar for what we think of tapas to be. The likes of Salt Yard, Barrafina, Iberica Tapas, Brindisa Tapas and Dehesa have all kept that bar high. For all its attempts to reach those heights, Barrica falls short. It is a fun place, the food is fine, the drinks very fine, but somehow it doesn't quite get there.

Barrica is very good value for money, would be fun with a good group of people and is small enough to be packed every night. The wine list is the high point: a really good spread of Spanish wines, many by the glass and good value throughout.