Jon's review of Arbutus

last week I had to go to “that London” again for a meeting. It was an early Monday meeting so I travelled early Sunday (25/01/09) to enable me to find a nice lunch and stay overnight (ok I got a good deal at the Travelodge for the night!)

Anyway, it was miserable and raining in London. As I walked under my “brolly” I passed several places where I could have had lunch, the “Branded” chains, some local restaurants with “traditional” Sunday Lunch, and a variety of International cuisine places where I could eat for around a tenner. Perusing the menus displayed I was uninspired.
so I headed for the multi award winning and Michelin starred Arbutus .This is one of the Michelin starred restaurants open on a Sunday. Seats are very comfortable upholstered “bench” against the wall but chaired on the other side, each table is suitable for two but combined next to each other makes up to the size of the group (there was a group of a dozen near me). Smart but unfussy decor, neat with mats on the table, not tablecloths.
Pris Fixe menu for lunch offers three courses with two choices each course, (one on each could be vegetarian). The restaurant was around half full (maybe the inclement weather?) but it was no problem for a table. I was shown to my table, set as you would expect, offered some good crusty bread, rapidly followed by butter appearing on the table on a very neat slate slab, and given the menu and wine list to view. I asked for some water and was offered “tap” at no cost or a choice of bottled mineral at prices (I'm a Yorkshireman and tap is fine for me!). I chose my dishes and also picked some wine. The good thing here is you can have a glass, 2 glass caraffe, or a bottle. I chose a 250ml of a Cote de Languedoc white wine at £5.75 (2 standard glasses)
To start I went for potato & curly kale soup. This was served in a wide brim bowl, reasonably full, and was perfect for the inclement weather in my opinion. Although slightly khaki in appearence (I was there after 2pm), it was delicious with finely shredded kale and nice chunks of potato, topped off with grated parmesan and drizzled with a citrus tasting olive oil. (more bread was offered too!).
For the main course i chose breast of lamb. Although this can be very fatty, it was cooked excellently so much of the fat was gone, fall apart melting, tasty and seasoned well, served with creamed potato and some delicious buttered carrots with a hint of fresh tarragon, also a little “jus”. (but not a “Yorkshire portion” plate)
For dessert I chose caremelised crushed apple with ice cream. This was two quenelles of the apple with one of the homemade vanilla ice cream, a finger of bicuit sponge and a swirl of caramel sauce. All elements were sweet and delicious, light and a suitable end to the meal.
The wine I had with my meal was complimentary to my starter and main course, light and fruity with an acid hint, but maybe I should have gone for something a little drier/crisper, maybe a Soave?. I had a little left in my glass and this did not go with the sweet dessert. If you saw Oz & James Wine Adventure on the tv you may understand (this is no reflection on the restaurant!)
The cost? Set lunch is £15.50, my wine was £5.75 and the usual service (no faults – ok) of 12.5% was £2.66 for a total of £23.91. (Just think what you would spend at your local carvry for 3 courses and 2 drinks!) A michelin starred bargain in my book.
Overall I would give this 7.5/10 but would definitely go again and indulge in the very reasonably priced menu for the a la carte.