Harry's review of Arbutus

This was by far the finest meal I've had in all of my visits to London. And at 17.50 pounds, it was quite a bargain. When I saw the menu, I wondered what the chef meant by “crispy pork cheeks,” for the description seemed oximoronic. Cheeks are unctuous, not crisp. The dish was revelatory, the first example of the chef's masterful juxtaposition of textures. A generous portion of shredded unctuous pork cheek was served between two thin round crisp pork cheek wafers. Brilliant! The brandade that followed was not the washed-out unsalty version so often served today. Perfect! Fine Morbiere and and apple toppped panna cotta (there were two persons sharing the meal) rounded out a superb meal. Let's not forget the wine which was served in 250 ml carafes. It was a most memorable experience.