R.R.Gill's review of Apsleys – a Heinz Beck Restaurant at The Lanesborough

Well with a new chef at the helm of Apsley's a place which I've always enjoyed, I thought I should rush back to check it out. A summer of rumours regarding Heinz Becks arrival has kept me on my toes and I'm very happy to say I was not disappointed. Physically there seems to be no difference in the style or look of the restaurant, which in my opinion was great anyway – all that natural light and little bit of chic opulence. The menu has obviously had quite a big change so I decided to go for the a la carte instead of the menu del giorno ( I've read so many reviews with people dining from the set menu it should perhaps be renamed “Menu del Journo…” no?…ok I'll get my coat.)

Anyway for starter I chose the Sea bass “Connolo” with celery and melon – very tasty and light flavours from the celery and melon complimenting the sea bass very well. Next a mid course of pasta and we went for the Carbonara fagotelli – one of Mr Beck's signature dishes. It was without doubt superb, very light parcels filled with a light and fluffy carbonara sauce – it tasted exquisite. Onto the mains and I opted for Slow braised veal cheek on apple puree and salsify – perfectly tender and juicy. We finished off with a chocolate soufflé with ice cream – simple but perfectly executed. Presentation was very good almost to the point where you didn't want to spoil the dishes by tucking in.

Service as as previous was excellent – very professional and knowledgeable. All in all a very pleasant lunch, Mr Beck has obviously been brought in to put Apsley's on the map as a destination in the same category as Gordon Ramsay and Claridge's and Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley, going from my first impressions he's definitely on the right track and I'd be incredibly surprised if they are not picking up an award in January.

Just for comparison – I awarded Apsley's marks of 8/8/8/7/8 from my visit earlier in the year.