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|Address:||214 Bermondsey Street, London SE1 3TQ|
|Tel:||020 7407 4682|
|Price: £42.00||Wine: £18.00|
|Opening Hours:||Tues-Sun 12N-3pm (Sun -3.30pm) 6-10.30pm (Sun -9.30pm)|
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Atico, I later learned means ‘ancient’ in Italian, however I do know that an Antiques once dominated the floor space of this very new Italian restaurant so I assume this is just an ingenious play on words.
The choice of name is not the only bewlidering inconsistency here – there is a cellar bar and and the restaurant has both bar style and formal table seating and is only open for dinner (apart from weekends). We only actually realised there was a bar downstairs by accident. The menu is also superbly confusing – there are three headings being Antipasti & Spuntini, Pasta & Risotto, Meat & Fish with a sub category of items titled ‘deli counter’ within Antipasti which basically was more starters and wasn't only served at the deli counter.
If I crudely categorising the first section, it was pretty good – a varied and interesting selection tasty Italian food from between £3-£7 tapas style – all the rage nowadays. Second courses (Pasta is also served in half main courses – or should that be starter size?) were a little lighter on imagination. The Pasta was excellent but with main courses mostly in the late teens and a satiated appetite after small plates we went no further.
There is a foodie mile along Bermondsey Street that stretches (almost) to Magdalen. José Pizarro is currently the Don with his two eponymous Tapas restaurants, the award winning Italian Zucca only a few steps away and an assortment of damn good gastropubs inbetween. It seems that Atico has attempted to incorporate elements of all these concepts and fused them into one and opened at the beginning of January.
I hope Atico does well. The food is good and the owner cares – hopefully it will find its own indentity, organise the menu and its opening hours.