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|Address:||46 Lexington Street, London W1F 0LW|
|Tel:||020 7437 5708|
|Price: £41.00||Wine: £18.00||Champagne: £28.00|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Sat 12N-3.30pm (Sat 1pm- ) 5.30-10.45pm Sun 1-4pm 6-10.30pm|
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Andrew Edmunds is a little, intimate, friendly, filling, unpretentious, fairly-priced, gem of a restaurant perfect for second dates, friendly catch-ups and small group gatherings. I love that the menu changes frequently, implying seasonality and freshness, and has plenty of hearty options. I ordered dressed crab followed by crab spaghetti to much merriment (but the guy next to me went for chicken parfait followed by poussin so he wasn't one to laugh). The first crab was delicious: fresh-tasting, delicate, a whiff of the seaside, with a delicious sharp sauce on the side (of which I would have liked a second dollop, but that's a minor niggle) and good value for a fully stuffed beast at £8.50. But I was sorely disappointed by my main as the chef had committed 2 cardinal pasta sins: firstly, the spaghetti was not al dente but cooked to a denture-friendly sogginess; secondly, some buffoon had broken the strands before throwing them in the pot thus making it impossible to twirl around a fork and shovel in to the mouth. A deliberate insult to the Italians (as any chef worth his salt knows the trick to cooking spaghetti whole), a sop to the terrible Brit habit of cutting up cooked spaghetti (not to be encouraged by the professionals!), or just a trainee error? There was also too much chilli oil for me but that, and the enormous portion size, would no doubt please others. Happily I have had other wonderful mains here (mostly meaty masterpieces) and this meal finished off with a delicious treacle tart which reminded me of school days, but in a good way. The long wine menu included a lovely Gewurtztraminer/Riesling/Pinot blend which kept me happy too. Service was helpful and efficient as ever and the atmosphere its usual cosy self (although I would have liked to turn down the volume on the hedgie behind us). I look forward to finding another excuse to return to this place which feels blissfully “local” despite its central location.