Find and book great restaurantsFind a Restaurant
|Address:||10 Greek Street, London W1D 4DH|
|Tel:||020 7734 4677|
|Price: £40.00||Wine: £16.00||Champagne: £35.00|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Sat 12N-11.30pm|
0 of 2 people found this review helpful.
I'm baffled why 10 Greek Street might be described as a ‘gem’, when it sits precisely half way along a line between Arbutus and La Giaconda, both of which have been doing exactly the same thing as this place for a number of years now, with far greater success. Indeed if anyone has a claim to be called a hidden gem of Soho's food circuit, it's La Giaconda which is more intimate and to my mind more foodie.
The menu looks good on first glance, but when you are forced to choose, the options are somewhat limited. It's nice to see smoked eel and partridge amongst the starters, but I wonder how many they actually shift. You might describe the food offering as ‘modern European’, but the pedant in me got a bit cross seeing dishes as diverse as scallops with morcilla, pork belly with polenta, and chickpeas, aubergine and yoghurt all in the same place. You wish the chef would pick one cuisine and stick to it.
The food itself was perfectly good: bruschetta with figs came with a ball of spot-on burrata, the queen scallops were dressed with lovely bacon-y oil courtesy of the morcilla, and wild mushroom rotolo was fine and garlicky although it swiftly collapsed on the plate. There was no arguing wth the sea bream with baby fennel and artichoke, though it is hardly going to win any awards for originality – unlike the more innovative offerings round the corner at Arbutus.
Service was grown-up, confident, friendly and efficient. Pricing was up and down however: the rotolo as a main was costed at £14, but the chickpea starter was £7 which seems daft given the ingredients cost.
Tables are mostly terribly cramped together: the long line of tables for two is well on its way to being a banquette, given the tiny gaps between them; we sat in a draft by the door to avoid this. Somehow La Giaconda, by contrast, has managed to orient their tables so you are rarely cheek by jowl, and Arbutus is actually laid out like a proper restaurant.
If I understand Russell Norman's theory of no bookings correctly, it's that restaurants like this are intended not as a destination but as a neighbourhood joint. On the basis of my experience, that's exactly the right label for 10 Greek Street.