The Perry Hill

Very rarely do we criticise those who try too hard, yet that’s exactly The Perry Hill’s problem. A gastropub should be a quiet, relaxed place where you can enjoy a hearty plateful of simply cooked food. Yet while the Perry’s platefuls are indeed hearty, there’s a feeling that the lily is being gilded. A main of chicken with sauteed autumn vegetables & pepperdew hommus was over-salted & unnecessarily served with new potatoes & green salad, & while pan-fried bream on crushed potatoes showed evidence of good products, they unfortunately had been drowned in an over-abundance of peach salsa, coriander & lime. More is more was also the theme of the service – it’s nice to see staff concerned that diners are enjoying their meals, but while it’s fine to check once, leave well alone after that. It certainly shows promise though, so with any luck, experience should eventually quell what may well be a prolonged case of first-night nerves.