Under the rumble of the Forth Rail Bridge in the tidy waterside village of North Queensferry, this bite-sized establishment (fewer than 30 covers) opened in spring 2006 determined to provide decent food at mid-market prices. Fife-Edinburgh commuters stop off on weeknights, while weekends see the place full of diners delighted to have a local option. Decor is functional, & the kitchen offers three courses starting with excellent scallops enlivened by gazpacho, followed by crispy, pan-fried sea bass on a bed of truffled lentils with red wine jus or rib-eye steak with rocket salad, & vanilla pannacotta with raspberries & coconut tuile to finish. Small scale, professional & personal, this is capital dining without the usual city hassles.

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