In a sleepy woodland hamlet on the edge of the New Forest, Terravina is co-run by Gerard Basset, one of the founding fathers of the Hotel du Vin chain. Among its attractions is a restaurant that echoes the recently renovated Victorian hotel’s feel of chic, clean-lined modernity, with an open kitchen & high-backed, leather banquettes running down the centre of the room. Roast, locally shot wood pigeon served with pickled apricots, a slick of apricot puree & confit potato impressed with its contrasting of textures. Starters are even better, from the silky refinement of a signature crab & leek lasagne to the robust simplicity of grilled Cornish sardines on a salad nicoise. Small winemakers are well represented on the carefully chosen yet approachable wine list, while friendly, professional advice is on hand from Basset himself or his knowledgeable sommeliers. Reasonable prices add to the overall pleasure.