A former winner of the BMW Square Meal Award for Best UK Restaurant, Birmingham-born Glynn Purnell is that rare thing: a cook whose driving ambition is to make his birthplace an all-round foodie destination. Diners can pick from a six-course seasonal tasting menu or an eight-course ‘tour’ of the chef’s signature dishes, with the additional option of building your own three-course meal. Despite some precious menu descriptions, Purnell’s finest creations taste like distillations of pure flavour: a witty take on kedgeree in poached duck yolk with smoked-haddock foam, cornflakes and curry oil; a charcuterie plate of beef carpaccio, corned beef and bresaola with octopus and sticky candied onion, or even monkfish masala for true-bred Brummies. Well-spaced tables and smart, neutral decor suit the business crowd as well as courting couples, while polished staff are marshalled by maître d’ Jean-Benoit Burloux, who combines matinée idol looks with unflappable charm and inestimable knowledge of the food and wine list.
WINE LIST: The wine list at Purnell’s is a real crowd-pleaser, featuring some top European names, as well as a smattering of New World stars. Traditionalists will be delighted with the strong line-up of Bordeaux and Burgundy, while those seeking more leftfield choices will find happiness in some intriguing selections from Washington and Switzerland. And a big thumbs-up for the digestif list, too, which features a range of saké, eau-de-vie and grappa. BEST BUY WHITE 2010 Dr Loosen, Riesling Kabinett, Bernkasteler Lay, Mosel, Germany, £39.95. BEST BUY RED 2007 Bodega Norton, Privada, Mendoza, Argentina, £36.95.
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andmorefood :: purnell’s, birmingham
good british near birmingham new street. purnell’s is apparently well-known for its chef – though I hadn’t really heard of him previously – and after reading a couple of mixed reviews I wasn’t quite sure about what we would be getting. we were directed into a cosy corner, which I was initially pleased with, until I realised that behind us was the exit by which the waiters and chefs and workmen took to get outside and so we had to contend with that throughout the meal. no matter though as I didn’t ask to move; our waiter was french and very polite and pleasant, even reminding us to eat while the dish was warm. I had been committing the mortal sin of food bloggers with photography...
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