Birmingham residents should be happy to have a restaurant of this calibre in their midst – especially as chef/owner Glyn Purnell is now running the chic, contemporary dining room with a Michelin star under his belt. Starters are excellent, from a reworked version of egg & bacon – poached duck egg yolk, black pudding crumble, bacon & cauliflower purée & nuggets of pig’s trotter – to a rich yet delicate dish of goats’ cheese with textures of beetroot & rosemary foam. Main courses sparkle with unusual combinations: roasted zander, served with a shopping list of crayfish, snail, bone marrow & parsley braised lentils, fennel, fennel pollen & parsley purée, sounds like a disjointed assembly, but packs an impressively coherent punch. Sensible portions leave room for accomplished desserts, such as burnt English custard ‘surprise’ with warm autumn fruit crumble, hazelnuts & quince sorbet.