Having hosted monarchs, politicians & players over the years, this former stately home has resisted modernisation, its grand, high-ceilinged rooms boasting suits of armour & a proud sense of history. Its evening-only, basement restaurant Waldo’s boasts Michelin-starred food, while The Terrace offers breathtaking countryside views &, although the food may not be as fancy, it’s still well executed. Quality ingredients are simply treated, from a starter of meaty ham hock terrine with a creamy foie gras centre, to mains of moist pan-fried hake with sauteed cucumber & fennel, or crisp-skinned roasted quail atop a bed of tender petits pois a la Francaise (braised with bacon & pearl onions). Round it off with an irresistible combination of shortcake, strawberries & vanilla ice-cream, or a plate of tempting European cheeses from the trolley. The grand, period dining room is manned by classically trained staff – perfect for those hankering after an old-school experience, though it comes at a substantial price.