The Miller of Mansfield

A recent makeover turned this ramshackle coaching inn, close to the river Thames, into a stylish restaurant with rooms. The quaint bar area may hark back to its former life, but pretty much everything else about the place is now thoroughly modern. With twinkling chandeliers, splashes of metallic wallpaper & low-backed cream banquettes, the dining room is as contemporary as the forward-thinking food. Innovative flourishes are evident throughout the menu. Seared scallops to start came with mango & kiwi salsa, lime foam & coriander oil, but it was a simpler main course that was the true stand-out dish. Tender & tasty sirloin of Caledonian beef with horseradish mash, caramelised garlic & Madeira jus was a delight, while a glorious peach tart crowned with honey & peach ice-cream ended the meal on a high note. Service can be muddled, but prices are reasonable & if you wish to continue the evening beyond a post-prandial drink in the bar, make use of the lovely bedrooms upstairs.