The Atholl at the Howard Hotel

The Town House Company has a small collection of top-class hotels in Edinburgh & the Howard is the Georgian jewel in the crown, with a New Town location & butler service for guests. Its Atholl restaurant is a small & discreet space – effectively a period drawing room – so it is best to book, especially during the tourist season. There is a Francophile tack to the cooking – three courses could include an ample & rustic smoked haddock & mussel chowder with truffle poached egg, a lightly seared halibut fillet on puy lentils & herbs (with an apostrophe of parsnip puree to the side), & a lemon tart with mascarpone ice-cream for dessert. Wines by the glass are decent value while the main list is far from intimidating. This is an exceptional & civilised hideaway.