With its smart, oak-wood interiors, finely clothed tables, swish seating and modish crockery, Voujon looks every bit the modern big-city Indian – despite its rather unpromising location at the bottom of Newington Road. The kitchen retains its sense of tradition by offering a tasteful, appealing mix of Bengali and north Indian staples, the cooking is generally precise and flavours are true – no wonder it’s often packed out. Tandooris, tikkas, bhunas, dhansaks and biryanis all feature on the wide-ranging menu, but also look for less familiar ideas such as sardines bhorta in a spicy tomato-based sauce, Red Fort chicken (enriched with yoghurt and almonds), aloo mangshaw (lamb with potatoes and green chillis) or macher jhool (salmon with lime juice, coriander, garlic and herbs). Vegetables, rice and breads cover the expected territory. Drink mango lassi, spiced tea or Cobra beer.