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The Crown at Whitebrook

Address:	Whitebrook, Monmouthshire NP25 4TX
Tel	01600 860 254
Website:	Visit The Crown at Whitebrook website
Price: £61.00	Wine: £17.00	Champagne: £35.00
Opening Hours:	Wed-Sun 12N-2pm Wed-Sat 7-9pm

Square Meal review of The Crown at Whitebrook:

Head chef James Sommerin has made The Crown at Whitebrook one of Wales’ top dining destinations. He won his first Michelin star in 2007 & recent visits have made it clear that his imaginative, endlessly interesting cooking is really hitting its stride. Crucially, he manages to deconstruct & re-interpret classic dishes without losing the point of the meal (which is, after all, to enjoy eating it). At our most recent meal butternut squash terrine, confit endive, artichoke & goat’s cheese foam comprised a beautifully balanced vegetarian starter while poached squab was harmoniously teamed with feta, watermelon pearls, shallot & thyme purée. Surf & turf was revisited as a beautiful piece of tender Welsh Black beef with langoustine tortellini, parsley root purée & confit shallot, while fish options might include pan-seared monkfish cheek with butternut squash, foie gras boudin & sherry. Familiar-sounding desserts such as tiramisu or apple crumble take on a less familiar appearance in Sommerin’s hands, but eat like a hymn to the flavours & textures of the original. Each meal is punctuated with engaging diversions: canapes, an amuse bouche, a glorious palate-cleansing mint granite, & fun & flawless petits fours. A knowledgeable sommelier is on hand to guide you through the enormous, well-chosen wine list. Impeccable service includes the frills & formalities you’d expect from a Michelin-starred restaurant but the atmosphere is unstuffy & relaxing. The large lounge is all warm lighting & easy chairs, & a superb display of original artwork runs through the downstairs rooms. Windows in the immaculate, pale-toned dining rooms look onto a tree-covered hillside. Outside, the rush of the brook can be heard from the terrace.