The Wensleydale Heifer

A high-end fish restaurant, smack in the middle of the country, with not a whiff of ozone? Unlikely, but true. David Moss has shifted his expertise down the road from the Crab & Lobster at Asenby to this rambling, whitewashed pub, adding some idiosyncratic touches. The lounge/bar cries comfort – it’s all leather sofas and tartan carpet – but step into the ‘fish bar’ and it’s as camp as Christmas. Knowingly naff details like joke crockery (the plate your dinner comes on is in the form of a newspaper – geddit?) and potty pictures of seagoing cows on the walls belie sensational dishes brought from the kitchen by local lasses in striped Breton jerseys. Marinated tempura of tiger prawns, hoisin, sesame and lemon hits the spot and there’s non-fishy local stuff going on too – slow braised shoulder of West Witton lamb, rosemary mash, charred aubergine, spinach & caper jus. But the Whitby cod, crackling Black Sheep Bitter batter, fat chips & posh peas is the best fish supper you’ll eat all year, in or out of newspaper.