There’s not a whiff of ozone in the air, but the Wenselydale Heifer still manages to ply its trade as a seafood pub/restaurant deep in the Yorkshire Dales. It’s been some years since David Moss shifted his expertise down the road from the Crab & Lobster at Asenby to this rambling, whitewashed inn, & he has never looked back. The fish bar is a more informal place to eat than the rather elegant dining room, but both offer a range of terrific dishes. Modern classics such as chilli salt squid, seafood pie or herb-crusted fishcakes with a leek & Cheddar thermidor sauce hit the spot, but there’s plenty of meaty local stuff going on too – roast chicken or shoulder of lamb with rosemary & garlic gratin, for example. That said, the Whitby cod in crackling Black Sheep batter with fat chips & posh peas is probably the best fish supper you’ll eat all year.