The Mistley Thorn

It is well worth the detour to this idiosyncratic coastal inn where contemporary art & a low-key decor melds with a cooking style that is bang on. Ideas are lively & wide-ranging & dishes are not weighed down by fussy presentation. This relative simplicity exposes the quality of the buying, much of it local, & the kitchen’s skill, a combination that can turn a light lunch of day-boat squid cooked on the plancha & served with chilli, garlic, lime, coriander & a perfect omelette into such a memorable meal. Elsewhere, an appealing menu of comforts such as fishcakes or rib-eye steak with homemade chips, or sausages with mash & onion gravy, is complemented by daily changing specials (particularly fish), delicious homemade bread with quality olive oil for dipping, an interesting & well-priced wine list, & on-the-ball service. Lovely bedrooms, too.