Devonshire Arms in Beeley

Renovation might have resulted in knocking through a few stone walls to open up the rooms, but the rural charm of this row of mid 18th-century cottages remains, with beams, exposed stone & log fires contrasting well with the bold colours, contemporary furniture & the gleaming espresso machine in the snappily updated brasserie extension. Despite having to venture off the beaten track, diners are drawn by the very good cooking, which makes use of fresh ingredients to good effect. Far-reaching menu options range from lobster & prawn cocktail, roast cannon of lamb & grilled Barnsley chop, to more sophisticated specials such as salt & pepper squid with noodle salad & perfectly executed char-grilled tuna with ratatouille, while nice touches on the dessert list include specials such as warm rice pudding with orange syrup & raisins. A daytime snack menu touting ploughman’s & hearty sandwiches, meanwhile, is just the ticket after a day tramping around the Chatsworth estate & Peak District. There are local real ales for those not drawn to the well thought out & reasonably priced wine list, service is kind & attentive, & there are four lovely bedrooms upstairs.