Set in lush Berkshire countryside close to Lambourn, this picture-perfect pub-with-rooms has plenty of aces up its sleeve. You don’t expect seafood restaurants in this landlocked neck of the woods, but then fish wholesaling is also the owners’ business. More surprising is the inventive, Asian-influenced food on offer. Our meal showed confidence & sensitivity: baby squid came with a sweet chilli salsa while butter-poached lobster, mango & pak choy was a lesson in simple cohesive flavours. Wild turbot arrived without unnecessary flourishes, in contrast to poached sea bream, which gained breadth & richness from its Thai coconut broth. Caramelised figs with a plum glaze & whisky ice cream brought proceedings to a delectable close. Studded leather chairs & low beams hung with nautical paraphernalia define the pubby interior, while racing mementoes add a raffish charm. A mood of garrulous fun prevails, & chic bedrooms make The Crab an affordable escape for roving Londoners.