Penycae Inn

Rebuilt using traditional materials, this smart, laid-back gastropub is a good looker, from its exposed stone walls to its timbered ceilings. The bar (warmed by a wood burner) is all big leather sofas & wooden floors, while the upstairs restaurant has beautiful mountain views from its chunky wood conservatory & adjoining terrace. The menus are festooned with top-notch Welsh produce, from fresh fish to Carmarthen ham. Try Breconshire venison terrine with tomato chutney ahead of a tender & generous portion of Welsh lamb rump with an intense red wine & redcurrant jus & seasonal vegetables. For dessert, the bread & butter pudding is a deliciously exact & straight-talking take on a popular classic. At lunch, the carte runs alongside lighter choices such as omelettes or pasta with a cockle, laverbread, white wine & cream sauce.