You don’t get much more central than this, & despite the landmark hotel's functional appearance it’s shiny & swish inside. The ground-floor brasserie combines sumptuous colours with stripped-back modernity. Tables are well spaced & the floor-to-ceiling windows provide views of one of the busier parts of the city. An open kitchen adds a touch of theatre, while the competitively priced menu re-works European classics with a modern edge. Starters include ravioli duck with chive beurre blanc & an excellent sweet corn pancake topped with grilled vegetables & a generous portion of grilled goats’ cheese. Mains range from grilled Celtic Pride fillet steak with a duxelle of wild mushrooms & paysanne potatoes to pan-fried red mullet with sauteed new potatoes, rocket & red pepper pesto. Cooking is accurate, & it’s underpinned by good, often local, ingredients. Desserts such as pear & almond tart with cinnamon ice-cream & caramel sauce are also worthy of attention.