At first glance it’s not immediately clear just what lies behind the frosted shop front in a pretty village-like enclave appended to not-so-pretty Birkenhead. Pint-sized Fraiche plays it low key, quietly concentrating on getting the details just right – from the bespoke sculptures and suede chairs in the intimate dining room to Michelin-starred chef/patron Marc Wilkinson’s highly idiosyncratic, single-minded cuisine. Working alone endows him with “high kudos”, and he pulls off all manner of Michelin-starred triumphs across a daily six-course tasting menu – from almond gazpacho with cherry and asparagus or roasted sweetbread with apple textures and truffle to a futuristic take on lemon meringue pie. Alternatively book in for the Salt Bench – a more casual offer based on ‘salty snacks’ supplemented by samplings from Fraiche’s monumental cheese trolley. The top-class, 300-bin wine list is a fine match for the food.