Fraiche

From the outside it’s not immediately clear just what lies behind the frosted shop front of Fraiche in Oxton, a pretty village-like enclave in not-so-pretty Birkenhead. However, a sign in the window proclaiming ‘Future French’ gives a clue that this is a small but perfectly formed restaurant serving modern – even futuristic – cuisine. Dishes such as bonbons of sweetbreads with smoked olive & apple textures, Herdwick lamb loin with fondant potato & chervil cream or sea bass fillet with aubergine yoghurt & verjus are skilful & subtly rendered, but seldom showy – likewise desserts including lemongrass pannacotta. The wine list is well matched to the food, with plenty of sub-£30 drinking as well as a nifty selection of Champagnes & sherries by the glass; there are also plenty of gold-standard brews for tea buffs. Fraiche may be low-key, but it’s quietly concentrating on getting all the details just right.