At first glance it’s not immediately clear just what lies behind the frosted shop front in a pretty village-like enclave appended to not-so-pretty Birkenhead. Fraiche plays it low key, and this small but perfectly formed restaurant quietly concentrates on getting the details just right – especially when it comes to Marc Wilkinson’s modern (even futuristic) cuisine. Ingredients are boldly matched in exciting combinations and the Michelin-starred chef pulls off all manner of triumphs from sherry-braised salsify with chicken-skin crisps, verjus and truffle shavings or perfectly timed monkfish with squid, textures of olive and blood orange to barbecued Dexter beef rib with artichoke mousse, hazelnut ‘snow’ and braised shallots. Meals end on a high note, with a tasting of delicate lemongrass pannacotta giving way to superbly kept cheeses or desserts such as burnt white chocolate mousse with coffee meringue. The top-class 300-bin wine list is a fine match for the food.