Stephen Terry’s much-lauded eatery has grown dramatically of late, with accommodation & an extended dining area added to the package. The decorative style remains rustic & homely, but the cooking has become more clever & complex – although you can still get classy versions of pub classics such as Hereford beef lasagne with ricotta, mozzarella & rocket. If you’re after something with a bit more zest, go for gutsy dishes such as local pigeon breast & chorizo on bruschetta with lentils, sherry vinegar & crème fraîche or Middle White pork loin with coco beans, Swiss chard, wild mushrooms, pecorino & dandelion. Elsewhere, organic lamb stars in an epic feast for two involving roast loin, braised & pressed leg, merguez-style sausage, shepherd’s pie, faggot, slow-cooked neck, dauphinoise potatoes & seasonal greens. Also on a grand scale is the ‘plate of chocolate loveliness’ – a wondrous assiette of sweet treats to share.