Casual but with a polished patina & pampering service, New Yard is a cosy space with an open hearth to cheer dull days. Although the former coach house on the remote Trelowarren Estate is an unlikely spot for a restaurant, the kitchen is absolutely committed to local ingredients & everything tastes intensely of itself. West Country seafood is also treated with respect, witness pan-fried grey mullet served with Jerusalem artichokes, salsify & parmentier potato. To finish, apple crumble with crème anglaise, warm chocolate & walnut brownie & cherry sorbet is a triumph. Factor in local Cornish cheeses & a thoughtful, reasonably priced wine list, & it’s well worth the trip to this modest restaurant.