Malmaison Oxford

Housed in an imaginative conversion of Oxford prison, this Malmaison is typical of the company’s policy of opening stylish but quirky hotels in offbeat locations around the UK. The bar & brasserie is found in the vaults of the building (there’s a wine-tasting room in the old solitary confinement cell) & the modern European food is very good indeed. Ham hock & split pea soup makes a satisfying start ahead of a main course of chorizo-crusted cod with clam risotto & harissa oil. For something simpler, Malmaison’s steaks are justifiably famous, while for pudding, there’s a classic russet apple & sultana charlotte with cinnamon ice cream & a nifty, whiffy cheeseboard. To drink, there’s a user-friendly wine list & cocktails in the bar.