There is much to enjoy at this eye-catching neighbourhood restaurant. The chic, unfussy interior of olive greens, red brick fireplaces & tables partitioned by floor-to-ceiling white curtains owes a lot to gentrified, country-club styling, but the atmosphere is far from stuffy. The menu of modern European dishes is similarly upscale. Homemade breads & an enticingly done amuse-bouche may be followed by a tower of roasted quail breast & confit leg, macadamia nuts & French beans with a sweet button onion compote & crisp parsnips, or simpler fare such as Cornish crab & crayfish Caesar salad. Pan-roasted breast of duck with spiced red cabbage, sauteed potato dumplings & a charred pineapple jus could follow, ahead of homemade doughnuts served with a vanilla & toffee sauce & tonka bean ice-cream. Exceptionally well-selected wines, & good service.