The menu has hardly changed down the years, but it hardly needs to. By 6pm customers have found their way off the A19 to the attractive village of Osmotherley in the foothills of the North Yorkshire moors & are rattling the door. In no time the brown wood, candlelit bar is throbbing. Tried & trusted classics dominate, cooked with generous assurance. Start with king prawns in garlic butter, mussels with shallots & cream, a mushroom risotto or tomato & basil soup. Follow with cod & chips, homemade chicken Kiev, calf’s liver & onions, steak & kidney pudding with a suet crust or, a great favourite, char-grilled poussin dripping in garlic & rosemary. There are properly made vegetarian & pasta options, usually good service under pressure, & no problems for children who want both chocolate & toffee sauce on their ice cream. Best to book at weekends.