There's nothing remotely flash about Stefano Lancelotti's trattoria unobtrusively buried in a basement beneath Harrogate’s Princes Square – imagine a cross between an old-school ristorante and a new-wave Italian enoteca. Contemporary artwork and polished tables create an understated backdrop for food that is several notches about the provincial norm. Seasonal specials provide a revealing snapshot of the kitchen’s endeavours – perhaps king scallops wrapped in smoked speck on wild mushroom pâté with fresh berries or Yorkshire rib-eye grilled on a typical Bologna-style salamoia with red onion chutney and rocket. Stefano's homemade pasta is also a top call: try ravioli filled with slow-cooked lamb ragù in an artichoke broth or maccheroni in cheese and curry sauce with chicken and crispy bacon. Finish in true Italian style with proper tiramisu, chocolate terrine or pannacotta. Excellent-value set lunches and well-chosen regional wines too.