Sami’s

By day, a ‘greasy spoon’, open from 8am for a classic fry-up of sausage, bacon, egg, baked beans & the like, for a modest £3.40. It’s nothing fancy, but service is good even when the place is packed – staff taking their cue from the ever-cheerful Sami (aka Amar Mahlous). By night it’s a great little Middle Eastern restaurant with modest prices & a BYO wine policy (no corkage). Diners are led upstairs to a simple but atmospheric two-roomed dining area with arches & alcoves, Moroccan lamps & jewelled cushions. The menu is pretty simple but it all zings with authentic spice & flavouring. Starters run through staples from baba gannouj (aubergine dip), to a salad of feta, red onion & chickpeas, or simply grilled sardines. For mains, there are grills – the £5 lamb kebab is ridiculously tasty value – chicken with garlic butter, cream & mushrooms, couscous dishes & a selection of non-meat plates. But best of all are Sami’s tagines, bursting with almonds, prunes, honey & garlic – subtle & sensuous.