Comfort levels are high at this smart, spacious Indian, one of a new brand of sleek, modern restaurants that is offering an upmarket alternative to the Balti Mile. It certainly enjoys plenty of applause. Tap Asia puts a contemporary spin on lunch, with a choice of six tapas-sized dishes from a wide selection for £8.95, including haka noodles, chilli and garlic prawns, rogan josh, tarka dahl and chicken tikka salad. In the evening it’s a different scene. A meal might start with baby chicken pan-fried & flavoured with ginger, garlic, green chillies & coriander, continuing with maha jingah – fresh-water king prawns marinated & roasted in the tandoor, or perhaps a casserole of lamb (hara bara gosht) roasted with cumin seeds, chilli flakes, crushed garlic & spinach & cooked until the sauce is dry & the lamb tender. If all that is a bit adventurous, try the more familiar chicken tikka, or order a thali – small portions of several different dishes served with naan & salad. Either way, Itihaas offers subtly flavoured dishes that aren’t swimming in ghee.