Perched precariously by a main road, this Georgian building houses an amenable, personally run restaurant-with-rooms. The restrained frontage hides a colourful interior of reds, ochres & muted yellows, & the cooking is emphatically based on seasonal & local availability. Expect starters such as home-pressed ox tongue with celeriac rémoulade or a little fish stew with tomato, fennel & saffron, followed by rump of Brecon mountain lamb with Mediterranean vegetable ragoût or lightly peppered haunch of venison with roasted sweet potato, sautéed savoy cabbage with smoked lardons & blueberries spiked with Herefordshire cassis. To finish, there’s a trio of Welsh cheeses or desserts such as toasted pine nut & honey tart with poached figs & Glaslyn Estate wildflower honey ice cream. Three simply furnished bedrooms are equipped with splendid bathrooms.