Spice Merchant

Contemporary Indian (part of a small Home Counties chain) that’s a welcome newcomer to the Henley dining scene. The appealing riverside location is certainly an attraction, as is the slick interior of soft lighting, leather, wood & granite, but the main draw is the high quality, sophisticated cooking which scores for both flavour & presentation. Imaginatively flavoured homemade chutneys, for example, include a stunning dry lentil & peanut chutney that practically explodes with flavour, while starters make for a slew of hits: grilled asparagus with cumin & caramelised onion, tinda (Indian squash) stuffed with spiced haloumi & pine nuts, & a gorgeous melt-in-the-mouth spinach tikki (a kind of spinach cake stuffed with figs). Mains are equally successful, especially Bilgrani chicken korma (rolled chicken fillets in a sauce of dill, spinach & coconut), a light & highly flavoursome dish. Other recommendations include succulent jumbo tiger prawns with lime & chilli & the Hyderabadi biryani served in a pot sealed with a deliciously flaky bread. A good wine list & an uplifting array of desserts – coconut brulee with tamarind & cinnamon or ginger bread & butter pudding – bring further kudos to the talented team of ex-Oberoi chefs beavering in the kitchen.