Don’t be put off by the care-worn appearance of Richard Hartley’s highly individual inn, a former branch-line railway hotel. Once through the paint-peeling front door, it’s not exactly smart but deep pink-washed walls, glowing coal fires, soft candlelight & a huge welcome have the desired effect. The laid-back chef-patron makes this place tick with effortless style, serving top-notch microbrewery beers & unusual wines from small specialist growers (all available by the bottle or glass). Chalkboards list 'stunning' pub food: Ladram Bay crab, weekend fish specials such as whole brill with basil cream sauce, Ruby Red Devon beef, local wild boar & a 'beautifully presented' tapas selection. Dishes are generally available in three sizes & at prices to suit all pockets. In addition, the kitchen cures and smoke its own hams & makes sausages. The setting, beside the River Culm deep in the Blackdown Hills, is glorious. Cash only.