The Bunch of Grapes

On paper the setting sounds great: beside a canal, on a countrified road on the outskirts of Pontypridd. In reality the canal backs on to industrial land & pop bottles swim in its murky waters. But this brave little gastropub is still worth a visit because the food is superb, & astonishing good value for money. Inside, there are some ghosts of the pub it must once have been - the carpeted bar is pretty ordinary, though comfy enough with its leather sofas, but the restaurant area (mostly housed in a large, clean-lined conservatory) is fresh & bright, & has a greater sense of occasion - think blackboard menus, bare floors & pine furniture. From starters such as homemade wild boar & venison terrine with wild mushroom & caper relish with toasted sage & cracked black pepper bread, to main courses of grilled fillet of John Dory on emperor green rice with seared Dublin Bay prawns, scallops & oriental broth, the cooking is modern, with sprightly flavours, fine ingredients & plenty of flair. On a flying visit, try the homemade soups or posh burgers, which cost in the region of £3. The locals love it, & rightly so.