Olive Tree

Ever since George and Vasoulla Psarias set up in a sprawling Victorian house on the outer ring road in 1981, their vivacious Greek Cypriot food has been the best of its kind in Leeds. Suddenly they're expanding, with a second Olive Tree planted in Chapel Allerton (188/190 Harrogate Road, 0113 269 8488) and a third in Headingley (74-76 Otley Road). They've grafted bright modern decor onto traditional virtues: generous mezze, reliable standards of meatballs and stuffed vine leaves, kebab, kleftiko, veal sofrito and plenty of non-meat options. Leave space for a lipsmacking kataifi, a sweet and sticky shredded pastry flavoured with almond, cinnamon and rosewater.