The Albion

While the unusually deft revamp of this rundown city boozer has gone for the standard gastropub look – lots of wood, leather armchairs in front of the log fire, open-to-view kitchen, even the obligatory patch of stylish wallpaper – the food is anything but predictable. Classic techniques are mixed with innovation and prepared with evident care in this confident kitchen, producing season-driven, finely tuned cooking with strong, clear flavours. It delivers 100 per cent. Eat in the bar, or ascend the tucked-away wooden stairs to the intimate dining room, the same menu is served in both. At lunch, potted Gloucester Old Spot supported by pickles, onion jam and toasted homemade bread is as tasty as it is simple, there are plates of quality charcuterie, more substantial dishes of calf’s liver with salt-roast beetroot, dried ham and white onion puree, or daily specials, such as the zingingly fresh Mediterranean-style fish stew tried on our visit. In the evening feast on breast of grouse with braised pear barley and beetroot before rump of Cornish marsh lamb with braised coco beans and palourdes clams, and choose puds that range from classics like sticky toffee pudding to an unusual burnt honey and live yogurt pannacotta with basil, black figs, and salty slices of Serrano ham providing an unusual contrast. Decent prices, Saturday brunch, drinkers made to feel as welcome as diners, a short, global wine list, & a sun-trap front terrace, add up to something Clifton Village has been crying out for - a proper local with far-reaching appeal.