The Hand & Flowers may still look and feel like a pub, but no one comes here for a pint these days – in fact the place has two Michelin stars under its belt and operates like a cleverly reworked restaurant-with-rooms. Co-proprietor Tom Kerridge is a larger-than-life chef with a big personality, a passion for British produce and a refreshingly unpretentious way of doing things. He has a proper respect for the seasons, too – witness a ‘monumental’ starter of crispy pig’s head with artichoke, pancetta and chickweed or a perky dish of morels, nasturtium and apple. For mains, a tranche of roast halibut could be teamed with wild mushroom and bacon ragoût, while dazzling desserts generally include ‘the most wonderful soufflés’. Set lunches are good value, service is ‘pubby’ in the best sense, and four fabulous bedrooms are housed in two nearby cottages.