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With a bright, modern, open-plan look (think dark beams, panelling, bare floorboards & African artefacts), the Wildebeest Arms gets everything right. The food is no poor relation, attracting a loyal following with its spot-on modern European dishes, a compendium of updated classics that could lead off with grilled smoked mackerel paired with Dijon gravadlax salmon, rémoulade & avocado purée before honey-glazed pork belly with braised Puy lentils, crispy red onion rings & Madeira jus or medallions of beef with fondant potato & rich port jus. To conclude, vanilla crème brûlée with blood orange sorbet & vanilla madeleine is a typical shout. The location, close to the southern Norwich bypass, means the Wildebeest is peopled by a happy crowd of movers & shakers plus some high-rolling locals (prices are not cheap). Out of the same stable as Mackintosh’s Canteen & the Mad Moose, both in Norwich itself.

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