The Vintners Rooms

At the corner of a Leith backstreet and opposite one of its unloveliest housing blocks sits a former wine warehouse with a history dating back to the late 16th century. Its first floor is home to the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, its ground floor hosts the Vintners Rooms, a French-style fixture on the circuit of classier city restaurants since 1985, currently in the hands of the capable Patrice Ginestiere and Silvio Praino. Diners have the choice of tables in the homelier bar area, or adjacent in a small room with elaborate plasterwork that tends to be a little stark during the day, better in the evening. There are some quite fabulous French wines (although few will fork out £750 for the 1988 Petrus) while lunch could bring presse de lapin to start, then sea bass croustillant, and thyme creme brulee for dessert. You could always pop upstairs for an exclusive dram afterwards but you'd have to pay a membership fee, albeit not an onerous one.