Livingston's

Linlithgow may now be a commuter town just 20 minutes by train from central Edinburgh but its main attraction (a largely 15th century palace, birthplace to Mary Queen of Scots) attests to a more interesting past. Livingston's is in keeping with this richer history. Down a pend (narrow alleyway) off the main street, it's a small family-run restaurant in a converted stables. The main dining area is intimate and restrained, but there's also a sympathetic conservatory; exposed stone, evening candlelight, and burgundy tablecloths bolster the sense of old Scotland. The menu is contemporary Franco-Caledonian but with nothing so outlandish it would alienate the many regulars. A typical lunch: carpaccio of Scotch beef to start; then baked salmon fillet on a bed of julienned vegetables in orange and ginger; raspberry, almond, and mascarpone tart for dessert. The espresso is good, the wine list interesting, and at dinner Livingston's steps up a gear with amuse bouche and more elaborate dishes (saddle of venison with parsnip, goosefat fondant, and game jus for example). Book in advance for Friday or Saturday evenings. If poshing up, it's the only show in town.