Marco Pierre White’s Yew Tree Inn

With his name writ large on the front of the building, there’s no missing the fact that uber-chef Marco Pierre White has bought himself a pub. He has joined forces with chef Neil Thornley (ex-Crab at Chieveley) to create a modern brasserie in a beautifully renovated 17th-century country inn. The food is rustic, unfussy fare: Welsh rarebit; perfect roast chicken; impeccable ribeye steak with bearnaise. It all stays true to the MPW formula – good renditions of comforting dishes that soothe rather than challenge – and the kitchen displays an admirable ability to interpret his ideas, especially the juxtaposition of flavour and texture. The cooking simply demands attention, from the profound veloute of fresh peas, its sweetness tempered by slivers of salty ham, to pink, meltaway slices of venison (shot by Marco himself) served on top of Savoy cabbage with just the hint of a crunch, with smoked bacon cubes and red wine jus chiming in. Desserts maintain standards, too, producing a raspberry souffle bursting with flavour, and a surprisingly delicate rice pudding coupled with compote of strawberries and raspberries. The short wine list is nicely judged in range and price with a good choice under £20.