Don’t imagine La Luna is just another small-town pizza & pasta joint – even though it’s just a few yards off the High Street. This sophisticated modern Italian comes with serious intent to match its relaxed cosmopolitan air. Big floor-to-ceiling windows reveal a stylish monochrome interior, one where black leather chairs contrast with white-clothed tables & polished floorboards offset black- or white-painted walls featuring wine racks & leafy fronds. The kitchen takes an equally contemporary stance; there are nods to Sicily in its seasonal menus, while top-notch ingredients, eye-catching presentation & fashionably restrained portions set the tone. Oven-roasted rump of Welsh lamb served with grilled Mediterranean vegetables & minted pesto, & a rich chocolate & almond torte with amaretto-caramelised apricots typical of the style. Service is charming, & the all-Italian wine list features producers great & small from Sicily to Piedmont.