Russell’s

The cool, contemporary mood of Russell’s, a prize-winning restaurant-with-rooms, provides a welcome break from cute Cotswold gentility. The kitchen works to a modern British menu (with a few forays into Europe) & ingredients are sourced from around the UK. Grilled Cornish sardines smacked of the sea, while a king prawn cocktail comes just as it should be. Following on, grilled ox tongue with parmesan mash was a joyful revelation & whole grilled plaice – its white flesh firm & subtle – benefited from a seductive lemon & dill shrimp butter. To finish, chocolate truffle torte smacked of sheer gastro-porn. The cooking is careful, service is sweet, & eight decent house wines (all at £18) head the admirable list. Guests can retire to one of the chic bedrooms, or book the vast suite (plus jumbo-sized Jacuzzi) tucked under exposed beams.